Monthly Archive for September, 2008

Foodbuzz 24, 24, 24: No Menus: an underground restaurant affair

The past few weeks have been busy for me, for those that subscribe to my Twitter feed you’ve heard me dropping hints about a secret event that I was hosting. Well, today I get to tell you all about it!

[ No Recipes ] was one of 24 blogs selected to commemorate the official launch of the Foodbuzz Publisher Community by creating a unique meal, then blogging about it. Foodbuzz is a community of food lovers buzzing about everything from restaurants, to food porn, to recipes. While I’m not going to be quitting my day job anytime soon, their Publisher Community helps me pay for some of the costs involved in running this blog through the ads in the right column. If you’re interested in signing your blog up for this program, click here.

From the moment I first got their email calling for proposals I knew exactly what I wanted to do. With the density of over-hyped, over-decorated, over-priced restaurants here in Manhattan, there’s been a food-counter-culture backlash of “underground restaurants” popping up all over town. The term refers to an unlicensed restaurants that opens up for one night, usually out of someone’s apartment. The decor is typically pretty sparse and they are illegal in the way speakeasy’s were during prohibition.

Perhaps the prospect of getting an amazing multi-course dinner for the price of a take-out Chinese meal is the draw, or maybe it’s the surreptitious nature of the dining experience. Whatever the case, underground restaurants have been growing in popularity in big cities around the world.

I set out to turn my 550 sq/ft hole-in-the-wall apartment into a comfortable dining experience rivaling someone of my favourite Manhattan restaurants. Being one that likes a challenge (and one that likes to support sustainable agriculture), I also committed to sourcing the majority of my ingredients locally.

While it wasn’t simple, turning my living room and kitchen into a restaurant proved a lot easier than sourcing all my food locally. In the end I’d say I got about 80% of my ingredients from producers within a couple hundred miles of NYC.

I started with small vendors specializing in local goods like Saxelby Cheesemonger in Essex Market and Vintage New York in SoHo. Then there were many trips to the local Green Markets held throughout the week in the parks around New York City. As a last resort I found that Wholefoods actually has a decent selection of locally sourced food, all of which is conveniently labeled with a big green “local” sticker.

By buying local goods you not only help out small family run farms, but you’re also reducing your carbon footprint because it doesn’t need to be trucked/trained/flown in from across the country.

The social and environmental impact aside, I like buying local because the food just tastes better and is better for you. With fruit they are typically organic and riper/sweeter because they don’t have to be picked green (to survive the shipping time). Meat tends to be more flavorful because the animals are fed wholesome natural diets rather than the hormone and antibiotic laden formulas used in overcrowded feedlots trying to maximize a large corporation’s bottom line.

        


For those that have wondered what you can accomplish in the trailer-home-sized kitchens provided with most Manhattan apartments, this whole dinner (as well as every recipe on this blog) was prepped in this kitchen. No, there isn’t more to it that’s been cropped off, that’s all of it. This shot was taken from the middle of my living room.

After a day of work, the theft of 2 folding chairs from work, and the acquisition of a $20 card table off Craigslist, I was in business. I set up a dimmer on the room lighting and used candles on the tables to create some ambiance. The glassware and flatware were a bit of a grab bag, but I figured I could pass that off euphemistically as “charm”.

So what was for dinner at No Menus? You can click here for the printed list of the courses along with their wine pairings as seen by the guests, or read on for the course-by-course replay. Hit the links for recipes.

Faux Gras de Poulet with vanilla white plum preserve and brioche

Frozen Caprese Salad - Heirloom tomato granita on top of basil and fresh mozzarella

Kuromitsu pork chop served with kinako powder and creamy maple polenta succotash

selection of four local cheeses: Mecox Sunrise, Prima Cacciotta, Sprout Creek Rita, Old Chatham Ewe’s Blue


Kaffir Lime yogurt panna cotta with a summer rasberry puree

The best part? This restaurant comes with a couch to lounge around on after dinner.

For more photos of the event check out our Flickr album. Many thanks go out to Foodbuzz for making this happen, as well as all the local vendors for putting up with my incessant questions about the source of their food. Also special thanks to L for all her help in making this thing happen.

Disclaimer: For any city health inspectors that may be reading this post, I didn’t collect any money from my guests, so there was no food being sold to the public.

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Kuromitsu porkchop with kinako powder

This dish was used as part of a 1 night “restaurant” held out of our apartment as part of the Foodbuzz 24,24,24 launch event.

Kuromitsu and Kinako are commonly used in Japanese desserts. You’ll often find rice cake (mochi) desserts rolled in the sawdust-colored kinako powder and kuromitsu is commonly used in kanten (Japanese jello) desserts. They’re even used together in Kuzumochi which is a dessert made from kudzu starch and topped with kuromitsu and kinako.

Literally translated as “black honey”, kuromitsu is a dark syrup similar to molasses made from raw sugar. Kinako on the other hand is a fine tan powder that’s made from ground toasted soy beans and has a nutty earthy flavour.

In this dish, the sauce and powder bring out the deep flavours of the pork while covering the unpleasant undertones. The sugar in the brine creates a nice brown crust on the meat while the inside remains tender and moist. Because I couldn’t actually find kuromitsu here I improvised with a mix of brown sugar and molasses. Unfortunately there isn’t really a substitute for kinako powder, but there are a couple online shops selling it if you do a search on Google.

As many of you know, the ethos of this blog is about not cooking from recipes, but I find that some cookbooks make for a good source of inspiration while others are a great reference for technique. I learned this technique for cooking perfect pork chops from The Best Recipe cookbook. The key is to pan sear the chops, transfer them to a hot oven, then remove them before they hit the desired temperature, allowing them to finish cooking while they “rest”.

Lastly if you’re making this in multiple batches for a large group, I’d suggest making the sauce ahead of time using a few teaspoons of demi-glace instead of making the pan sauce on the spot.

for brine
3/4 C brown sugar
1/2 C kosher salt
2 Tbs minced garlic
1 Tbs ground black pepper
1 Tsp ground cinnamon
10 whole cloves
1 C hot water + 5 cups cold water
4 bone in loin cut pork chops about 1″ thick

for the pan sauce
pan used to sear the pork
1/4 C red wine
1/4 C molasses
1/4 C dark brown sugar
pinch of salt
black pepper

kinako powder for serving

About 6 hours before you’re ready to cook the pork, put the sugar, salt, and spices in a heavy duty ziplock bag then add 1 cup of hot water. Seal the bag and shake the bag to dissolve the sugar and salt. Add the cold water then add the pork chops. Seal the bag trying to squeeze out as much air as you can (so the chops are completely submerged). Refrigerate until you’re ready to cook them.

About 10-15 minutes before you’re ready to cook the chops, remove the pork chops from the brine and dry each one with paper towels. Allow them to come to room temperature to ensure even cooking. Place a pan in the oven on the upper middle shelf and pre-heat the oven to 450 degrees.

When the oven is heated and the chops are at room temperature, heat a cast iron pan or other heavy bottomed pan over medium high heat until very hot. Add a splash of oil, swirl to coat, then carefully place the pork chops in the pan. Leave them undisturbed for about 2 minutes or until a nice brown crust has formed. Flip and cook until browned on the second side.

Transfer the pork chops to the oven and cook until an instant read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chop (near the bone) reads 127 degrees F, about 5-8 minutes. Remove the chops from the oven, place on a plate and cover with foil. Allow the pork to rest for 5-10 minutes or until an instant read thermometer reads 147 degrees F. You should know that the USDA recommends that pork is cooked to 160 degrees to be “safe”. Unfortunately, at that temperature, you’ll end up with hockey pucks, so proceed at your own discretion.

While the chops are in the oven, deglaze the hot pan you used to sear the pork in with red wine, scrapping all the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the molasses and brown sugar and cook down until it’s thick and syrupy. Salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, just plate the pork chops and drizzle the sauce on top. Make a pile of kinako powder next to the pork chops to dip the pork in.

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Kaffir lime panna cotta with raspberry puree

This dish was used as part of a 1 night “restaurant” held out of our apartment as part of the Foodbuzz 24,24,24 launch event.

This is similar to the honey yogurt panna cotta I made a few weeks ago, but I swapped the honey out for sugar and the cream was infused with flavour from Kaffir Lime leaves.

Kaffir lime and raspberry as a combo was something that came to me in one of those “aha!” moments that one sometimes gets about food. Cooking fruit changes its flavour, so I always like to use raw purees of fruit whenever possible. In this case I used a pint of raspberries with a bit of sugar to balance out the creamy yogurt-based panna cotta.

The milk, cream and yogurt came from Evans’ Farmhouse in Norwich, NY by way of Saxelby Cheesemongers.
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Frozen Caprese Salad with heirloom tomato granita

This dish was used as part of a 1 night “restaurant” held out of our apartment as part of the Foodbuzz 24,24,24 launch event.

This “insalata caprese” served double duty as an appetizer as well as a palette cleanser between a course of Faux Gras and Kuromitsu Pork Chops.

The refreshing granita offsets the dense creamy mozzarella with a layer of basil leaves offering some herbal contrast to the umami laden duo. A light drizzle of olive oil and sweet 12 year balsamic vinegar finish the dish off like a bowl of shaved ice doused in nectar. As one guest put it “my tastebuds are confused”.

Despite the confused taste buds, the plates were emptied before I had a chance to get any action shots.
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The secret is out…

…well part of it at least. For those wondering what I’ve been twittering about, you can get a sneak peak here (as well as a peak out of my Manhattan window).

Can’t say more than that for now, but check back here on Sunday for full coverage:-)

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