Monthly Archive for October, 2008

Soboro Don

Japanese people have a thing for naming things for the vessel they come in (see nabe), and this is no exception. Donburi literally means “bowl”, but is typically refers to a bowl of rice topped with something. Japanese people also like abbreviating things, so donburi becomes “don” in common parlance.

This is the ultimate weeknight meal as it takes almost no time to make. It’s also fantastic in bento boxes for lunch. I usually make a batch of onsen tamago (slow cooked egg) over a weekend as it takes a bit of time to make, if you haven’t make any ahead of time, this also great topped with a sunny side up egg, or scrambled egg, or even no egg at all.

The chicken is quickly cooked in a sweet soy sauce (think teriyaki sauce), and sandwiches a thin layer of green onions over rice. The onsen tamago, permeates the entire dish with a custardy creaminess that you just can’t beaten.

You could do a lot with this basic recipe too. Try using beef or pork, or even crumbled firm tofu. You could also add veggies. For seasoning, it’s great with a little sesame oil, garlic, or if you want to give it a little kick, add some gochujang (Korean hot sauce).
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Onsen Tamago (hot spring egg)

This is probably my favourite dish of all time. It’s not even so much a dish as much as a preparation. “Onsen” means “hot spring” in Japanese and “tamago” means “egg.

Since Japan sits on top of a giant volcano, there are hot springs all over the place. Some of these hot springs happen to be be exactly 160 degrees F which is the perfect temperature to slow cook eggs. For those that have never had one, it’s one of those experiences where you take a bite and exclaim “I had no idea eggs could taste like this!”.

The white has the texture of a really delicate custard while the yolk comes out firm, but retains the color and creamy texture of an uncooked yolk. The traditional way to eat them is for breakfast covered in seasoned bonito dashi, but I love these so much I put them in just about anything. In noodle soups, donburi’s, butternut squash soup, or on fried rice. I’ve even contemplated turning it into a dessert with a sweet caramel syrup (a deconstructed creme caramel).

I won’t lie to you, they are tricky to get right, but with the right equipment and a couple of try’s you should be able to get it just right. The difficult part is in keeping the temperature just right. All you need is an instant read thermometer, a heavy pot with a lid (like a Le Crueset), and a timer. If you’re lucky enough to have an oven that can accurately maintain a temp of 170 degrees it’s even easier.

One last note, the FDA recommends you cook poultry products to 165 degrees F. Since we’re not quite hitting that, the FDA would consider it “unsafe”, but I’ve never gotten sick eating these and I’ve been told that prolonged temperatures above 140 degrees F kills salmonella. Still if you’re nervous about this kind of stuff this might not be for you.
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No Recipes vol. 2

For this week’s No Recipes roundup, I have for you 2 classic Japanese dishes along with 2 pseudo-Indian ones. If you’re wondering what the deal with all the dashi inclusive dishes is, I had an audition for The Next Food Network Star today and needed to bring my signature dish pre-plated and I also had to do an on-camera 5 minute demo. I decided to do the demo on making home made dashi, so I’ve been playing with different variations all week.

As the Angry Asian Man points out, there’s really a dearth of yellow folk on The Food Network, so hopefully season 5 marks an end to that;-)

If I have time this week, I’ll post my first video blog (a practice run of the demo I caught on tape).

This week’s No Recipes isn’t completely devoid of instructions because I’ve posted about this dish before. This is one of my all-time favorite dishes, so I make it relatively frequently (much to my cardiologists chagrin). The pork belly braises in dashi for several hours in a low temperature oven which renders out a lot of the fat and releases a ton of collagen that makes the meat just melt in your mouth. I used this for the “plated dish” part of my audition today.

Here’s another winter Japanese dish called Nabe (which literally means pot). It’s basically a Japanese hotpot (aka steamboat) dish that you cook at the table. It’s a broth made from dashi with light soy sauce and mirin that you cook lots of veggies, some tofu, pork and mushrooms in. You can really put just about any combo of meat, seafood (I really like crab) and veggies in this one and it’s about the easiest thing in the world to make. It makes for a hearty warming meal yet it’s relatively light and healthy. You could easily make this vegetarian by omitting the pork and using a dashi made with kombu and mushrooms.

I took the liberty of topping this one with an onsen tamago (or slow cooked egg). If you’ve never had one before it’s a transformational experience because it’s not like any egg you’ve ever had before. I’m planning on posting a recipe for it later this week, so hang tight.


I’m a total novice when it comes to cooking Indian food, but I had some cauliflower and butternut squash in the fridge, so I made this veggie “tikka masala”. I use the term loosely because while it did have tomato and cream in it, I went a bit light on the cream so the tomatoes came through a bit too much.

I don’t know if I ever mentioned this before, but I absolutely hate wasting stuff. I had some pizza dough left over from a few days back and it occurred to me that it might make good naan if cooked it on the stove in my cast iron skillet. This was the result.

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Pirikara Shogayaki (spicy ginger fried pork)

Here’s another Japanese classic that I’ve had my way with. In this case I’ve added a healthy dose of capsasin with a dollop of spicy Korean gochujang. Pirikara means spicy in Japanese (piri-piri is the name of a chili pepper in Portugal… the people who introduced chili peppers to Japan way back in the day), shoga means ginger and yaki means grilled/fried.

I went to Mitsuwa this past weekend thinking I’d just pick up a bag of rice and some other essentials since I’d only just been 2 weeks ago. I should have known better though because as I made my way past the meat section I was greeted by this pork!

It’s kurobuta (black pig) pork and this particular specimen was just too tantelizing to pass up. There wasn’t much in the pack, but it’s so rich you don’t need a lot.

This is a simple weeknight dish that you might see resurface the next day in your bento box for lunch if you lived in Japan. While most shogayaki recipes call for using soy sauce, I like the way the nuttiness in the miso plays with the pork. When you fry it, the sauce caramelizes releasing an irresistible aroma of sweet miso, ginger and garlic.

You could of course go the more traditional route and replace the miso with soy sauce and the omit the gochujang, but what’s the fun in that? This marinade is also great on chicken or beef, but pork is my meat of choice for this dish.
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No Recipes vol. 1

When I first started this blog I wanted it to a be a place where I could share cooking inspiration. I’d planned to post pictures and write about the ingredients I used and perhaps share some history about the dish. It quickly became apparent to me that that wouldn’t fly, so I scrapped the idea and I busted out the measuring cups and started fastidiously documenting everything I made.

At first I worried it might stifle my creativity, but to be honest it’s actually been a pretty good exercise for me. Probably the biggest benefit is that I’m actually able to reproduce successes with some consistency. I also have a horrible memory, so documenting stuff here has ensured I can make something I liked again even if months have passed since the last time I made it.

Still, work and life have kept me busy and accurately measuring out and writing down ingredients and a reproducible process takes time. When time is scarce, I tend to throw together whatever is in the fridge, sometimes recycling left-overs 3-4 times, turning them into a new dish every night. That’s not something I could write a recipe for even if I tried, so until now these frankencreations have gone unshared. Well, you asked for them, so I’ll be posting a weeklyish roundup of all the stuff I made that I didn’t have time to document with a step-by step recipe.

Here’s the No Recipes roundup for this week:

I went and saw Body of Lies today after going to the Japanese market and this is the result. Scallop sashimi with smoked salt and yuzu with a dusting of middle eastern spices including cumin, corriander, cinnamon, and cayenne pepper.

L made a 4 cheese pasta earlier this week and as a result we had a ton of random cheeses sitting in the fridge. I also had half a butternut squash sitting in the fridge and a lone apple that was nearing the end of it’s edible life, so these two pizzas were born. I used Jim Lahey’s no-knead dough and topped it with olive oil, ricotta insalata, butternut squash, pecorino romano and salt and pepper. I’m not a huge fan of ricotta, but ricotta insalata is a dryer saltier version that works very well with the sweet butternut squash. Ideally I would have topped this with sage, but basil is what we had in the fridge, so it got a scattering of torn basil once it came out of the oven.

This one’s a bit more unusual as far as pizza’s go, but the flavours should be familiar… I call it the “cheese plate” because it’s got all the stuff you’d find on a cheese plate at a restaurant. The sweetness from the honeycrisp apples juxtaposes the salty Ewe’s Blue cheese while the nutty walnuts compliment both. The fontina adds some creaminess and a drizzle of honey as it comes out of the oven finishes it off.

I haven’t been to enough Filipino restaurants to be able to say this is at all authentic, but it’s got vinegar in the braising liquid which tenderizes the meat and gives it a pleasant tang. Other ingredients include soy sauce, brown sugar, ginger, garlic and scallions.

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