No Recipes vol. 9 (Valentines Day Edition)

February 16, 2009 · View Comments

in Dinner party, No Recipes

Tres Leches with Passion Fruit

It’s been a while since I’ve done one of these, so here’s what L and I made for our Valentine’s Day dinner. The goal was to get a restaurant quality meal for under $150. If you only take into account the ingredients we actually used that day, I think we may have come in under $100.

The fantastic Tres Leches cake pictured above was made by my wonderful wife. The cake itself is doused in 3 kinds of milk (hence the name), and is almost like a creamy pudding. While I loved the milky cake, adding the bright yellow passion pulp with crunchy black seeds added texture, color and some contrasting flavours that where quite literally the icing on the cake.

Bulgogi marinated Foie Gras with Kimchi glassBulgogi marinated Foie Gras with Kimchi glass

I’ve never cooked foie gras at home, mainly because you have to buy a whole 2 pound foie, but I’ve also found it to be a bit intimidating as an ingredient. Lately, I’ve been trying venture further outside of my comfort zone, so I figured v-day was the perfect opportunity to challenge myself. And a challenge it was!

For those not familiar with foie gras, it’s French for “fat liver” and is quite literally the liver of a duck or goose that’s been overfed. Liver is one of the few foods I really dislike, but foie gras is something completely different. It’s like eating really flavourful butter and doesn’t have any of the unpleasant bloody or gritty taste/texture that regular livers have. Because of the high fat content, it needs to be cooked very quickly otherwise it will literally melt away like a cube of butter.

It’s also very rich, so it presents some interesting opportunities for pairing. For the first course, I marinated the foie in soy sauce, ginger, garlic, sugar, rice wine, sesame oil and scallions overnight, then seared it in a hot cast iron skillet. The marinade caramelized nicely on the outside giving it a nice crust while it was melty and rich on the inside. I served it with a “kimchi glass” made with caramelized sugar and pureed kimchi. Overall, it wasn’t bad, but it still needs some work before it’s post worthy. My main issue was with the kimchi glass. Subjecting kimchi to the high temperatures of caramelized sugar really changes its flavour profile. It also turned out much crunchier and thicker than I’d intended which made for a rather unpleasant textural contrast to the delicate foie. If I try this again, I may opt for a tapioca flour based glass.

Foie Gras Kakuni with Candied HijikiFoie Gras Kakuni with Candied Hijiki

This was just a bad idea. Making a proper terrine is a complicated, time consuming process under the best of conditions. In addition to the fact I’ve never made one before, I rushed it. I was gunning for something like pork belly kakuni, but with layers of braised pork and foie gras, mimicking the layers of meat and fat in pork belly.

First off, the terrine didn’t really come together properly, you can see from the picture that it’s more like a layer of pork on top of chunks of foie. Secondly, foie gras is really rich, and needs something sweet or sour to offset its buttery richness. This dish had neither. Lastly, I tried to make it look a little more appetizing by torching the top, but instead of browning, the whole thing just started to liquefy. While I think there’s some potential for the kakuni flavours (ginger, soy, niboshi), I’m going to scrap this one.

One good thing that came out of this though is the candied hijiki. It’s sweet, savoury and crunchy and makes a great healthy beer snack along with some nuts. I also learned that foie gras and green shiso taste amazing together. Ironically the shiso was just there as a decorative garnish, but it’s something I will definitely be experimenting with in the future.

Foie Gras with 7 Up Poached Apple and Apple Icewine GeleéFoie Gras with 7 Up Poached Apple and Apple Icewine Geleé

This was the real star in the trio. I’d picked up a few bottles of apple ice cider the last time I was up in Quebec, and this stuff literally tastes like sweet concentrated apples, not apple juice, not dried apples, but fresh, straight-from-the-tree apple goodness. According to the label, over 80 apples go into each 375ml bottle of cider! When I first decided to do foie gras, my last bottle of ice cider was the first thing that came to mind.

For the poached apple, I reduced a bottle of 7 Up by two thirds then poached rings of apples for about 10 minutes. The lemon-lime soda really brings out the apple’s natural flavours and prevents it from turning brown. On top of this went a slab of seared foie gras which I topped with a yamamomo (Japanese mountain peach). The little cubes surrounding it all is the geleé. Then for a bit of color I put baby arugula leaves along with the liquid from the yamamomo.

Warm Fillet Mignon and Fennel Salad with Meyer Lemon DressingWarm Fillet Mignon and Fennel Salad with Meyer Lemon Dressing

You’ve probably already read my post proclaiming that this was the best course in our dinner (which it was), but in case you haven’t, hit the link to read more.

Sous Vide Lobster with Yuzu Hollandaise and Uni Mashed PotatoesSous Vide Lobster with Yuzu Hollandaise and Uni Mashed Potatoes

This was our main course and while it was a lot of work and wasn’t quite perfect, it was truly delicious. Keep your eyes out for a post about this decadent main course.

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    • Jean
      Where do you buy yamamomo?
    • Stunning plates of food but tell me, how long did it take you two to cook all of it? You must have spent the rest of the night washing dishes in stead of other things. ;-)
    • marc, i totally appreciate your ability to admit a fuck-up. only a real man can do that. the prob. is, if i had to look at the picture of the terrine, i wouldn't even think it was an f-up! i still want to eat it!

      also, the geleé is gorgeous. you really are GOOD... really, really good.
    • Wow.

      re Manggy's comment: teehee... I guess we folk have to find comfort in SOMETHING after this magnificent display. =D
    • Everything looks so elegant!

      Hey Marc, I e-mailed dm@norecipes.com with a question about dinner and a movie. Did you ever get it? The gist was that I'd like to participate, have already made my dish in fact, but will be out of town on the 28th. Could I still participate if my post is early?
    • I love reading about your culinary adventures. Sorry to hear about the kakuni-- I hope you'll forgive me if I found it hilarious :P Everything else though, including the imperfect kimchi glass-- looks spectacular! :)
    • Tan
      So wonderful set Marc, I especially love foie gras.
      This set so beautiful I don't think I can eat them.;)
    • BV
      kim chi glass, a great idea. i noticed your criticism of the outcome, an idea, although convoluted, i think it would work. take the kim chi and dehydrate it and then blend it to pulverize it into a powder. then take some isomalt and melt it on a silpat in the oven. next, pulverize that and mix the two powders together, possibly season it. then take that mixture and sprinkle in a light and even coating over a silpat and bake once again. once it melts, take it out and it should cool to a nice, very thin glass. hope that helps!
    • marc
      I've never worked with isomalt before, but now you have me fascinated. Yet another item to add to the growing list of stuff to get from Chef Rubber.
    • I absolutely love your idea. Ahhh What's the point of going to a 5 star restaurant when you can cook and present food just as well as those hot shot chefs. I don't think I'd be able to do as you did for less than $150.00.
    • I love the look of everything you made - esp. the warm filet mignon salad and the tres leches cake (passionfruit is my fav)! And congrats on your NYTimes article - I really enjoyed reading it!
    • Great insight into your culinary experimentation! Interesting to come across mention of 7-up poached apples as my Mum cooks apples in 7-up all the time but I hadn't come across anyone else doing it.
    • What a fabulous dinner you had! Thanks for the recipe for your onsen tamago, it sounds deliciously creative. I can't wait to try it out.
    • Jen
      You really poured your heart, soul and caring into this one, huh? :) Your wife's Tres Leches looks like a light cloud of delicious sweetness. You two rock!
    • And I had a can of spam for V day, while commenting on Serious Eats (I am the Board Matron there).

      I sure hope that i can find a man by next V day.
    • Love the thought process behind your dishes, whether they turn out or not. You learned something from every attempt, and sharing your triumphs and not-quite-triumphs w/your readers is very generous.

      Kimchi glass: Perhaps you could have pulverized it to dust in the food processor, and sprinkled it on/around. The stuff on the foie would probably melt into a lovely caramel pool, while the stuff on the plate would be "kimchi sand."

      Love the passion fruit on the tres leches. Perfect foil to sweet-creaminess is sharp-pointiness!

      I wonder if you did some sort of caramel gastrique as a base for your terrine? I know that's not a complete sentence, but I'd bet that sharp, vinegar-y, sweet might be nice w/ all the richness. Maybe pom molasses?

      Looking forward to reading how you'll tweak your "near misses," although, on the whole, the meal sounds wonderful!
    • marc
      Love the idea of the caramel gastrique, will have to think about that one. Thanks for your suggestions!
    • This looks like 4-star food to me. Sous vide? Kimchee glass? You amaze me. Next Valentine's Day, I'm coming to your house instead of eating out. ;)
    • all these dishes look exquisite marc! i was dumbstruck when it came to the kimchi glass - that was totally amazing. so creative! every dish is a masterpiece :) only wished someone could be inspired by your genius and actually recreate that for me on Valentine's. I wish! x
    • Everything looks wonderful. I have been looking for passion fruits in the stores to no avail.
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