Archive for the 'French' Category

5 tips for making perfect crêpes (recipe for crêpes with buttered apples)

Making light, airy, evenly browned crêpes that are just a little crisp around the edges is no harder than making pancakes (I actually think is easier). Here are 5 tips to ensure things go smoothly.

5 tips for making perfect crêpes

  1. Refrigerate the batter for at least one hour. Gluten, a cross-linked chain of two proteins, forms when wheat flour and water are agitated. It’s a desirable reaction when you’re making things like bread, but is not so desirable in cakes, pie crusts and crêpes. Refrigerating the batter after it’s been mixed, “relaxes” the gluten and makes for light, airy crêpes.
  2. Use a heavy bottomed stainless steel pan. Your pan needs to heat evenly, so it’s important that it has a thick bottom that will achieve this. Also, I’ve found that non-stick pans don’t evenly brown the crêpes (leaves a weird mottled pattern), so I prefer using a pan without non-stick coating.
  3. Slowly heat the pan to the desired temp. If you try to heat it too quickly you’ll constantly be fiddling with the temperature knob because it will start burning or get too cool. On my gas stove, I put the pan on the large burner and have the heat set a smidge below medium, but you’ll have to figure out what works best for you. Also, make sure the pan is hot enough, otherwise your crêpe will stick to the pan.
  4. Over butter the first crêpe. By “over butter” I don’t mean deep fry, but you want to make sure you have enough butter in the pan to thinly cover the bottom and part of the sides. Usually I just unwrap one end of the stick and make a swirling motion around the pan (kinda like applying deodorant). Your first crêpe will be a bit crisp and buttery (not that that’s even a bad thing), but your following crêpes should come out perfect. You shouldn’t need to re-butter the pan for at least 5-6 crêpes and you’ll only need a quick swipe.
  5. Don’t flip it too early. Wait until the surface of your crêpe is no longer shiny and the edges are starting to brown before you try and flip your crêpe. If you flip it too early it will tear.

The recipe below will make about 12-16 crêpes depending on what size pan you use. Apples tend to have a subtle flavor so I like using a couple forms of apple to make sure it’s got plenty of flavor. If you don’t have Calvados (apple brandy) feel free to substitute for brandy.

for crêpe
1 C flour
1 1/2 C milk
2 eggs
pinch salt
1 Tbs sugar
1 tsp vanilla

Put everything in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl with a spout, cover and refrigerate for an hour. Following the instructions in the tips above, heat a pan and butter. Pour enough batter into the center of the pan to cover about 1/3 of its surface area then quickly pick it up and use a swirling motion to cover the rest of the pan.

Let this cook until the edges start turning brown and grab an edge with a flat spatula then use your fingers to lift the edge and get the rest of the spatula under the crêpe and flip it. Cook for about another 30 seconds or until you see some brown spots when you peak under the crêpe. Transfer to a plate and serve immediately, or you can stack them on top of each other and keep them in a warm oven.

for buttered apples
1/4 C apple juice
1/4 C butter (1/2 stick)
1/2 C sugar
1/2 apple cut into 1/8″ cubes
2 Tbs Calvados or brandy
1 Tbs lemon juice

Cook everything except the Calvados and lemon juice in a small sauce pan over medium low heat while you cook the crêpes (about 10-15 minutes). Whisk in the Calvados and lemon juice just before serving over your crêpes.

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Faux Gras (or more accurately Faux Foie Gras)

No ducks were tortured in the making of this faux gras

I’m celebrating with a glass of Riesling right now. Why the celebration? Well, there’s lots to celebrate: the beautiful weather in NYC, my company getting funded, the fact that this blog blew past it’s previous record of visitors in one day today (currently at 1,565 and counting), but this is not what I’m celebrating.

I succeeded in making a substitute for Foie Gras that could pass for the real thing. This was my first attempt and I expected it to go horribly wrong, so I didn’t actually write down a recipe, but I’m so excited that it worked that I just had to post.

Foie Gras literally means “fat liver” as is made by force feeding ducks. I’ll omit the gory details of the process, but needless to say, it’s pretty inhumane. The liver of these poor ducks end up swelling by up to 10x their normal size making them taste incredible. If you’ve never had it before it’s a little hard to describe, but it’s like a more ephemeral version of butter that practically vapourizes on contact with your mouth, exploding into a rich serum of flavour as it rises in temperature.

Due to the cruelty involved in its production, it’s been banned in many places around the world. I’m a bit like a crack-addict in the sense that I know it’s wrong, but I just can’t help ordering it when I see it on a menu (I know, I’m a terrible person), coming up with excuses like “the duck has already been killed anyway” and “it won’t be long before they ban it here, so I should enjoy it while I still can”. But in my heart I know it’s wrong and that I’m probably going to hell over an hors d’oeuvre.

The idea came to me the other day when I was roasting a duck. With the exception of foie gras, I really dislike liver. Whole ducks of course come with a liver, and I always feel bad about throwing it out, you’re also left with an enormous amount of rendered duck fat. It occurred to me, that all foie gras is, is liver from a really obese duck. This got me wondering if it would be possible to infuse a regular liver with fat to make it taste more like foie gras.

Certain that I wasn’t the first person to think of this, I went on the Internet looking for a recipe. What I found was a bunch of pâtés with butter mixed into it. I’m sure they’re tasty, but most of the recipes admited that it wasn’t the same. They generally looked brown and slightly mealy like a regular pâté which is a far cry from the smooth glistening dusty pink terrines that one would visualize when they think “foie gras”.

I started to wonder if it was even possible, but after some thought I decided to give it a go anyhow. 2 days and a bit of molecular gastronomy later I had a ramekin of faux gras that was a dead ringer for the real deal. That’s not to say it was perfect. I went light on the seasoning so I actually had to sprinkle a bit of fleur de sel and white truffle oil over to enhance the flavor, and it was a bit more ducky than I would like, but I have ideas on how to fix this for the next time.

It was light biege on the outside, and a dusty pink on the inside. The terrine glistened and had none of the chalkiness or bloody taste that pâtés do. Most importantly, it mimicked the melty thing almost perfectly.

It’s still horribly unhealthy and vegetarians might still consider it “inhumane”, but as a meat eater I feel better about not wasting a perfectly good liver that was spared the fate of growing up in a foie gras farm.

I’m sure I’m not the first, and won’t be the last to figure this out, but I still felt a bit like Indiana Jones having just discovered the Holy Grail. I could tell you how I did it, but that would spoil some of the fun of figuring it out for yourself;-P

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