Archive for the 'Mexican' Category

Tacos al pastor

I think the 3 things I miss most about California are owning a car, having a grill, and the Mexican food. The later two are especially salient around Cinqo De Mayo which for me used to signal the start of the grilling season.

Like the Mexican food in NYC, Cinco De Mayo is a bit misguided here in the US. Most people think it’s the Mexican equivalent of July 4th, but it’s actually not even a federal holiday south of the border (Mexican Independence day on September 16th however is). I suspect its prominence in the US has a lot to do with the marketing engines of big tex-mex chains looking for a way to sell more burritos (ironically, this is a food item that doesn’t have the wide popularity in Mexico that it does here). Still, it is a good excuse to cook Mexican food especially something a bit more elaborate that takes about a day to make.

One of my favourite taco’s, Tacos Al Pastor (”shepherd style”) likely originated from Lebanese immigrants who made their way to Mexico and brought with them Shawarma. Like any food that emigrates from one place to another, changes are made to include locally available ingredients and to suit local palettes. In this case, the meats were flavored with various chiles and then topped with a pineapple while roasting.

The pineapple, aside from adding some sweetness and acidity, also has an enzyme called bromelain that breaks down proteins making the meat very tender. Since we don’t all have shawarma spits at home, I’ve adapted this recipe to work in an oven or on a cooler grill. The pineapple goes into the marinade which gets layered into the roast and is then left to marinade for a short amount of time.

The meat is stunningly tender with a distinct earthy-smokey flavor coming from the dried chiles and a nice balance of sweetness, tartness and salt. I like my taco’s simple (like they serve them at taquerias in Mexico) and load up a double layer of corn tortillas with meat then add a bit of minced sweet onion, cilantro and salsa verde on top.

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Chipotle turkey chili with pickled jalepenos

Chipotle turkey chili with pickled jalepenos

It used to be that the word “chili” would conjure up images of brown chunky mush that looked (and smelled) like something you would feed a furry four legged companion. The only thing that would make the chili of my memories remotely edible was to douse it with loads of cheese, sour cream, onions, and salsa.

Recently I was contemplating the contents of my pantry and given barren shelf with a lone can of smoked chipotle chilis and cannellini beans (aka white kidney beans) staring back at me, I decided I’d throw old notions of chili out the window. What I came up with was a fresher alternative that still captures the spicy warming essence of what good chili should be.

As in keeping with this blog’s name, I encourage you to take liberties on the ingredients and come up with your own perfect chili. Some ideas include replacing the turkey with crumbled extra firm tofu, using different spices, and serving it with different things. The picture above illustrates what I did with the chili on day 2.

Chili
2 tbs - good olive oil
1 - medium onion diced
1 - celery stalk diced
1 - jalepeno, seeds removed and minced
3 - garlic cloves minced
1 tbs - minced ginger

1 - bay leaf
1 tbs - ground cumin
1 tbs - ground coriander
1 tsp - cinnamon
1 tsp - chili powder

1 lbs - ground turkey

2 - chipotle chiles (canned in adobo sauce) diced
2 tbs - Adobo sauce from the chipotle chiles
3 cups - low sodium chicken stock

1 16 oz can - cannellini beans drained and rinsed

Pickled Jalepenos
2 - Jalepeno peppers sliced thin
1/4 tsp - salt
pinch of sugar
2 tbs - white vinegar

In a medium saucepan, saute the first set of ingredients in the olive
oil over medium heat until soft and starting to caramelize. Add the
spices and cook for another minute until fragrant.

Add the ground chicken, turn up the heat and break up into small
chunks until cooked through.

Add the chili’s, reserved adobo sauce and chicken stock and bring to a
boil. Turn down the heat, add the beans and simmer for 20 minutes.

Serve with pickled jalepenos and toasted bread rubbed with a clove of
raw garlic.

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Grapefruit Guacamole

Grapefruit Guacamole

I’m a big fan of simple citrusy guac and grapefruit goes especially well with avocados. The tart sweetness along with the slight bitter edge offset the creamy smoothness of the avocados well. Pickling the onions first keep them from overpowering the citrus and the cilantro adds a freshness that rounds out the guac nicely.

1/4 small red onion thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 Tbs.)
1/2 tsp. salt
Juice of 1-2 segments of grapefruit

5 segments of grapefruit peeled
1 ripe avocado roughly chopped
1 Tbs. minced cilantro
Juice of half a lime

Combine the first 3 ingredients ahead of time and let the onions “pickle” for at least 10 minutes. Squeeze out the juice with your hands before using.

Crumble the grapefruit up into pieces with your fingers, add the avocados, pickled onions, cilantro and lime juice and stir to combine (the avocado’s should still be chunky). Salt to taste and serve with chips or on top of a grilled white meat fish like Halibut.

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Carne Asada y Nopales Tacos

Having grown up in an California, Mexican food is less exotic and more comfort for me. Since moving to NYC, I’ve been faced with a serious dearth of descent taco’s and come the 5th of May, I found myself missing my native state almost as much I missed having a BBQ on my porch.

I’m not even going to attempt to claim authenticity here, but this recipe is geared for speed (I didn’t start marinating till 2 hours before I wanted to eat), and the tastes that I remember. The carne asada is tender and comes out of the broiler lightly charred almost as if it came off a BBQ and is the perfect balance of spice, tang and salt.

The slightly tangy nopales with a texture somewhere between asparagus and okra plays nicely with the garlicky ramps, and while they’re delicious on their own, they’re a wonderful complement to the meat. If ramps aren’t in season (which is most of the year), you can substitute garlic chives, or a combination of leeks and garlic, but it just won’t be the same.

Carne Asada

1 lb. hanger steak
1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 serrano chilli peppers minced
2 cloves garlic minced
Juice of 2 limes
1/2 ripe kiwi mashed
1 Tbsp. kosher salt (or 1/2 Tbsp table salt)
Pinch of dried oregano
Pinch of ground coriander seed
Pinch of ground cumin seed
Fresh ground pepper

Nopales con Ramps

3 young prickly pears (nopales)
1/4 lbs. young ramps cleaned thoroughly
1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
Pinch chili powder
Salt & Pepper to taste

Pico de Gallo

2 vine ripened tomatoes diced small
1/4 sweet onion minced
1 serrano chili minced with seeds
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
Juice of half a lime
Pinch of dried oregano
Pinch of salt

Soft corn tortillas

Stick all the ingredients for the Carne Asada marinade (everything except the meat) in a blender and blend, or you can hand chop stuff if you don’t feel like getting the blender dirty (I find washing a blender takes more time than chopping, and it’s definitely less soothing). The kiwi is an amazing natural meat tenderizer, but if you’re going to marinade for less than 2 hours, I recommend cutting 1/4 inch deep slits in the meat so the marinade does its thing faster. Pour the marinade over the meat, massage it in, and refrigerate until you’re ready to cook it.

The nopales need to be cleaned well (nothing will ruin a cinqo de mayo celebration faster than a guest choking on a cactus spine). If they don’t come from the store cleaned, you’ll need to scrape all the brown buds and spines off each nopal. I use the back of a knife to do this (like scaling a fish), then get the remaining bits with a vegetable peeler (you don’t need to peel it). Then just cut the end off each one, cut it in half lengthwise and cut it into strips.

To prepare the ramps, make sure you wash them really well (they grow in sand and mud near rivers, so they’re usually really dirty). I usually use kitchen sheers to cut the leaves off from the stems and wash them separately. Then, just cut the ramps diagonally into 1″ wide strips.

Mix all the ingredients for the pico de gallo together, taste, adjust the seasoning and let the flavors meld.

Move the rack towards the top of your oven and turn it on to broil, line a pan with aluminum foil and place the hanger steak on it. Broil, turning once until the meat is as cooked as you like it. Personally I like it medium rare, so I’ll broil it on each side for about 6 minutes.

While the meat is in the broiler, heat a non-stick pan on high until hot and add the oil. Add the nopales and the stems from the ramps and cook for about a minute or until the nopales are translucent and taste cooked (hint: you can eat them raw). Add the ramps leaves and season to taste. As soon as the leaves wilt remove from heat and transfer to a serving platter.

Once the meat is cooked, remove from the broiler and let it rest for a few minutes. I know it smells damn good, but be patient, otherwise all the juices (moistness & flavor) will gush out onto your cutting board. Once the meat gets it’s beauty rest, chop it up, add some more chopped cilantro, and squeeze some more lime juice on it.

To serve, warm up the tortilla’s in a microwave for about 20 seconds between 4 sheets of moistened paper towel. Let your guests scoop mounds of delectable meat and veggies into a tortilla, add some pico de gallo, grab a Corona and enjoy!

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