Archive for the 'Roast' Category

Foodbuzz 24, 24, 24: A West Asian Thanksgiving

West Asia, a region comprised of the Near East and Middle East includes countries like Turkey and Syria which were at the center of the spice trade for centuries. It’s no surprise then that West Asian cuisine makes extensive use of spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, and sumac.

For Thanksgiving this year, my family flew out from California, so I wanted to make something a little different than the usual turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy. Still, it wouldn’t be Turkey Day without the eponymous bird and the traditional fixin’s so I created this West Asian inspired Thanksgiving dinner.

While the flavours may taste exotic to the western palette, the preparations stick to their more traditional North American roots. I also borrowed some North African flavors such as Harissa for the Turkey and Mergueza sausage for the stuffing. While it might sound like it’s all over the map, the ingredients all play together very nicely with the spices adding vibrance to the late autumn meal without loosing the comforting feel of a traditional Thanksgiving dinner.

This year, I was lucky enough to be chosen to host one of the 24 Thanksgiving meals being featured on Foodbuzz this month. For those of you not familiar with Foodbuzz, it’s a community of people who are passionate about all things food. If you have a blog, you can become a featured publisher which gets you access to food events and you can submit a proposal for their monthly 24,24,24 event. If you’re chosen, you get a stipend to cover the expenses of your proposed dinner.

Like my last 24, 24, 24 meal, I tried to source as much of the ingredients as I could locally. Most raw ingredients including the 8 lbs. heritage turkey came from within a few hundred miles of Manhattan. The Mergueza sausage I used for the stuffing came from a cool little stand at Union Square that sells both wool and lamb.


      

An unintended side benefit, of this meal is that it’s actually quite healthy by Thanksgiving standards, using no butter or cream and making spare use of processed sugar. The potatoes use tahini for creaminess and both the brussel sprouts and yams use fruit juice reductions for sweetness. We also had a guest that’s gluten intolerant, so with the exception of the stuffing(which you could make with gluten free-bread), the rest of the meal is entirely gluten-free.

So what was on the menu you ask?

Appetizers
fresh local baby carrots with cherry wood smoked sea salt

selection of local cheeses

multi grain and seed bread & home made zucchini bread

salt & sumac sweet potato chips

Main
harissa cinnamon roast turkey

fiery cinnamon cranberry sauce

tahini mashed potatoes

sweet potato sumac gratin with meringue

brussel sprouts caramelized with pomegranate molasses

multi-grain stuffing with dried cherries and mergueza

Dessert
Crust less milk and cardamom “pumpkin pie”

These chips were a result of leftover sweet potatoes and yams after I made the gratin. They’re just deep fried until crisp and are dusted with salt and tangy sumac.

The turkey came out golden brown and perfect with a crisp fragrant skin and moist flavorful meat underneath. The rub is the same as I used on the chicken except I doubled the quantity. I roasted the turkey at 425 for 30 minutes, breast side down then reduce the heat to 325, flipped it and cooked breast side up until it was done. Stay tuned for a more detailed recipe.

I’m normally not much of a cranberry sauce fan, but this one really worked. The chili pepper and cinnamon overdose really gives it the kick it needs to be more than just a tart jam. In our family, cranberry sauce is usually what ends up being consumed over the following week as leftovers, but this batch sold out the first night. Stay tuned this week for a recipe.

These tahini mashed potatoes were also a part of my preview dinner, but I swapped in Yukon Gold potatoes for their smoother texture and added a ton of milk. This resulted in the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever had. Honestly they tasted like they had cream and cheese in them. The flavour and creaminess comes courtesy of the tahini, which is a smooth paste (like peanut butter) made out of ground sesame seeds. Tahini does have a way of absorbing a lot of water though so I ended up adding about twice the amount of milk I’d normally put in mashed potatoes. See recipe here

For this dish I layered thinly sliced yams (orange) and sweet potatoes (yellow) along with cinnamon and sumac then covered it in a reduced apple cider. It’s topped with a lightly sweetened meringue which is browned until slightly crisp on top. Stay tuned this week for a recipe.

Brussel sprouts are one of those reviled veggies that I’d try about once a year hoping I’d like them better. I realized this year that the thing I liked best about brussel sprouts where the bits around the edges that got caramelized, so instead of halving or even quartering them, I decided to shred them like cole slaw. This worked better than expected and 6 people managed to polish off 2 lbs of brussel sprouts in one night. See recipe here

This stuffing was good the first time I made it but it was even better the second. I like really moist stuffing and the key is to douse it with chicken stock until it’s nearly mushy. The spicy North African lamb sausage is packed with flavour and goes nicely with the sweet and tart dried cherries. The multigrain retains a pleasant texture even after being thoroughly soaked in stock, and a light dusting of sumac on top gives it a bit of color and a nice tang. See recipe here

Having a gluten intolerant guest I knew I’d need to make a dessert that didn’t involve the use of flour. Sure, I could have cheated and used a gluten-free flour, but I wanted something a bit more interesting. The Turkish have a fantastic baked milk custard dish which was my initial source of inspiration. I ended up straying pretty far from the Turkish original using an egg based custard and steaming it instead of baking it. I infused the milk with with green cardamom, nutmeg and orange zest and it gets its intense creaminess from the sweetened condensed milk (similar to a flan). While it looks fantastic and the custard was the perfect texture, I wasn’t a huge fan of the tough skinned sugar pumpkin. Next time I think I’ll try it with a finer textured Kabocha pumpkin. Stay tuned this week for a recipe.

Similar posts

Mediterranean Spiced Thanksgiving Dinner

After 30 plus Thanksgivings, I’ve gotten a little bored with the usual “Thanksgiving = turkey + stuffing + mashed potatoes + gravy + cranberry sauce” formula. Still, it’s a meal that I look forward to for 11 months out of the year (I spend December in recovery) and doing away with the traditional items and fixin’s just doesn’t seem right.

Sure, I’ve tried stuffing sage leaves under the turkey skin and adding apple cider to the gravy, but there’s only so many variations you can do on the traditional themes. This year, my family is flying out from Cali to have Thanksgiving in NYC (thanks guys!), so I decided to see if I could do something radically different while still retaining that “Thanksgiving” feel to the food.

While I tossed around a bunch of ideas, including a 9 course Kaiseki turkey dinner, I decided to go with a middle east themed Thanksgiving. This was partly influenced by the discovery of the most awesome spice shop in the East Village called Dual Specialty Products. It sells every spice you could possibly imagine, and lots that you’ve never heard of, by the pound (yes you read that right). I picked up 1/4 lb of sumac and 1/4 lb of garam masala for a couple bucks each. They also have fresh curry leaves and naga jolokia peppers. Yes capsaicin-heads, that’s naga jolokia as in over 1 million Scoville units, kick-your-ass then light a pile of thermite under it naga jolokia.

Anyway, back on topic, last night, I ran my first rehearsal of this theme using a chicken. In a word, it was good… really good (I know… that’s two words, but cut me some slack). Different, but not so different that it would have been unrecognizable as a Thanksgiving dinner. If you didn’t smell or taste it, you might even think it was ordinary.

The cinnamon harissa rub I made for the chicken is going on my list of favorite marinades. It’s pleasantly spicy, with great aromas coming from the cinnamon, garlic and cumin and it has just a hint of tang from the sumac. Put simply, this spice mixture would make boot leather taste good (though you might need to do something about the texture).

I’m not much of brussel sprout fan, but shredded, then caramelized with shallots and pomegranate molasses, this will make a believer out of even the biggest skeptic. Pomegranate molasses is a thick sweet and tart syrup made by boiling down pomegranate juice. You can get it in bottles at Middle Eastern groceries, or if you have the time I suppose you could make it yourself.

I’m not really sure why no-ones thought of adding tahini to mashed potatoes before (well a quick google shows that they have, but have you ever heard of it?). The flavours and textures compliment each other very well and you end up with a rich, creamy, nutty mashed potato without adding any butter or cream. I forgot to do it before I took the photos, but if you sprinkle a little sumac on top, it adds some color and just a bit of tang to brighten things up.

Last, but not least, the stuffing. Stuffing and I have a love hate relationship. I love it when it’s been stuffed inside a bird and is saturated with flavorful juices as the whole thing roasts. I hate it when it’s been cooked outside the bird and is dry, chewy, and flavorless. I used to always opt for the stuffing route (after all the method is the namesake), but with food safety concerns these day’s the fine folks at the FDA (a.k.a. ruiners off all good food) tell us that we’re not supposed to stuff poultry unless we’re willing to cook the bird until it’s a giant ball of jerky. The answer? Use a semi-stale firm bread (instead of crunchy wonderbread croutons that came out of the bag) and lots of chicken stock.

For this stuffing I used a multi-grain bread to which I added dried cherries, celery, shallots and Merguez sausage to. It strikes a great balance between savoury, spicy and sweet and the inside is soft and moist while the top layer comes out nice and crisp.

Since I was only cooking for 2, I skipped the cranberry sauce, sweet potato’s, pumpkin and apple pies, but I have big plans for those. I hope these recipes inspire you to create your own unique takes on holiday classics:-)
Continue for more >>

Similar posts

Slow roasted whole snapper

After my success with a slow roasted sockeye fillet, I decided to apply the technique to a whole fish.

This is one of those dishes that is very impressive looking and yet requires almost no work at all. The perfect dish for a dinner party. If you get the fish monger to clean and scale the fish for you, all you need do is throw all the ingredients in a roasting pan and stick it in the oven for about an hour and a half. It’s all done in one pan making it’s own sauce to boot

If cooking whole fish isn’t your thing you could probably do this with a fillet although you’ll need to adjust your cooking times and you may want to par boil your potatoes.
Continue for more >>

Similar posts

Green tea pulled pork with spicy asian bbq sauce

Still lingering on tasty memories of Michelle’s last BBQ, I was craving smokey pulled pork in a big way this weekend. So much so that I actually got my ass out of bed at 9 am on a Saturday to head over to Chinatown to pick up a big ole pork butt.

Pork butt for those initiated is another name for the “picnic” roast which in betrayal of its name comes from the other end of the pig (the shoulder). It’s a delightfully grisly fatty cut of meat that would make for a rubber doorstop if you cooked it any other way than slow and low.

At about 185 degrees F, the fat and connective tissue break down into that lovely moisturizing stuff that lotions purport will keep your skin wrinkle free and supple. This makes the meat incredibly moist and tender allowing you to enjoy the ample flavor that’s inherent in this cut of meat. The key is to slowly raise the temperature of the meat to 185 F then keep it there for at least an hour. In an ideal world, you’d put it in a heating vessel that holds a steady 185 degree temperature then leave it there for a day … But then again in an ideal world I’d be allowed to BBQ in my NYC apartment and not have to go to work either.

In an effort to make this more apartment friendly and time saving, I roast it in a dutch oven at 200 degree F. It will still take at least 5 hours mind you, so this isn’t a quick weeknight meal, but you could also put this into a crockpot on low and let it do it’s thing while you’re at work. I used smoked salt to give it a bit of that bbq flavour, but nothing beats putting it in a real charcoal smoker for hours on end.
Continue for more >>

Similar posts

Slow roasted salmon with peanut curry sauce and snap pea slaw

When it comes to seafood, common knowledge tells us to cook it hot and fast, so when I saw slow roasted Steelhead on the menu at the Painted Lady in Newberg Oregon, I was skeptical. I guess curiosity won over my skepticism because I ordered it.

The dish as a whole was a disaster. There was so much going on I can’t even remember half the things in/on/around the steelhead, but the limp overdressed arugula and prosciutto were memorable as was the fact that the dish was sooo salty I couldn’t taste much of anything else. Though in all fairness to the restaurant, the service was very friendly and the appetizer and dessert were both good.

So if it sounds bad and tasted bad, why would I make my own rendition?

As I said, the dish as a whole was a disaster. The slow roasted Steelhead on the other hand was transformational! As I was eating it, I went back and forth between oral bliss as the Steelhead melted into a pool of flavor on my tongue and utter indignation over the travesty that was on my fork.

Determined to fix this injustice I spent the next few days contemplating what I’d pair with the moist and melty morsels. This peanut and spicy red curry sauce melds perfectly with the creaminess and earthiness of the roasted salmon while the crispy, sweet and minty slaw strikes a pleasing juxtaposition, that will cool your palette and bring a smile to your face.

A couple things to note, use the best sockeye salmon or steelhead trout you can find (wild and line caught ideally). When making the sauce, don’t let it boil as the oil will separate (I turned my back for a few minutes as I was reheating it and it boiled which is why the photo doesn’t look so great).
Continue for more >>

Similar posts