Tag Archive for 'buckwheat'

Smoked trout and buckwheat rolls

On the way to the Union Square farmers market yesterday I was met with a downpour of torrential rain. Rather than wait in the steamy subway station I decided to make a run for the Barnes & Noble at the north end of the square. By the time I made it across the street to the bookstore, there was water dripping off my shorts. I threw a furtive glace at the stocky security guard by the entrance and made a bee line for the escalators, leaving a trail of water in my wake.

Upstairs, I hunkered down in the cooking magazine section and started flipping through the rack of cooking magazines. Regular readers know I rarely cook out of cookbooks. This also applies to magazines, which I don’t subscribe to since they have a tendency to wind up in an unread pile in my shoebox of an apartment. Still, I do occasionally enjoy flipping through them since they have more photos than words.

This recipe was inspired by a photo in this month’s Gourmet Magazine. I didn’t actually read much more than the caption and all I can recall is something about “forest wraps” with Romaine Lettuce and Bulgar. After the rain subsided, I went back out to the market and happened upon an amazing looking head of Romaine Lettuce that was still covered with spatters of earth.

I’ve gone on before about the virtues of cooked lettuce (here and here), but using blanched lettuce as a wrapper had never occurred to me until I saw the pic in Gourmet.

I can’t really think of any other dish that makes for an accurate comparison to this one. It’s somewhere between Dolmades, and Vietnamese spring rolls, but has a combo of flavours and textures unlike anything I’ve ever had. To be honest, I wasn’t sure how this was going to turn out and gave it about a 20% chance for success. But part of what I enjoy so much about cooking is experimenting, and this turned out to be a great success.

These rolls make for a great light meal while having a lot more substance than a salad. The smokey buckwheat and sweet smoked trout come together with the creamy boiled egg to make a delicious crumbly filling. The steamed lettuce leaf holds it all together, adding its own green vegetal flavour and crunch. The rolls are finished with some minty yogurt sauce and pine nuts that add a creamy tangy bite and freshness to it all.
Continue for full recipe

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Kasha corn fritters (vegan)

Being a meat eater these days seems a bit like being a smoker 20 years ago (still socially accepted, but something that meat eaters are starting to feel guilty about). I know I’ve been posting a lot of meat dishes lately, so consider this recipe this week’s mia culpa (something I’m sure I’ll be doing with some frequency).

These shallow fried fritter’s are crispy on the outside and soft and spicy on the inside with little bursts of sweet crispy corn. Because there is no flour or egg to bind it all together it’s very delicate, but what it lacks in cohesiveness it makes up in a wonderful soft crumbly texture on the inside. I suppose this may also qualify as gluten-free, though I’m no expert.

If you can get your hands on fresh curry leaves, they add a wonderful fresh aroma that’s a bit hard to describe. I got a bag from a co-worker who picked them up at a spice market here in Manhattan. They shouldn’t be confused with “curry powder” as they are not related. Curry powder, as it turns out, is a British blend of spices created to approximate the taste of “Indian food”… who knew?

2 C cooked kasha (make it with a little extra water)
1/2 C fresh corn (or well drained canned/frozen corn)
6-8 small fresh curry leaves cut into a chiffonade (optional)
1 serrano or jalepeno pepper seeded and minced
1/4 C minced onion
2 tsp Garam Masala
1/2 tsp kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper

oil for frying

When cooking the kasha, make sure you add some extra water (how much will depend on the type of kasha you’re making). The idea is to get it to a soft state where it turns into a paste as you stir it. I know, this sound unappealing but it’s essential to get the ingredients to bind into patties and the frying will fix the texture. If it’s not pasty enough, try adding a bit more water and cooking for a little longer.

Mix all the ingredients together until it forms a rough paste.

Heat a pan over medium heat adding a thin layer of oil that’s thick enough to cover the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot, form a ball of kasha mixture between your palms then squish it flat making sure all the edges are sticking together.

Gently place this in the hot oil. Be very careful as the corn will have a tendency to pop, splattering hot oil everywhere (if you have a spatter shield, it might be a good idea to use it). Repeat with the rest of the kasha until the pan is full. Wait until you see the sides of the fritters turn golden brown, then using 2 spatula’s (1 on top, 1 on the bottom), flip the fritters over cooking until the second side is well browned. You mean need to clean up the floaties in the oil between batches so they don’t burn.

Remove to a plate lined with several layers of paper towels and allow to drain. Serve immediately. I served them with some Thai sweet chili sauce and a mint yogurt sauce (1/4 C plain yogurt, 1 Tbs minced mint)

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