
I guess I’ve been on a bit of mint kick as of late. It’s yummy in desserts and makes a great garnish, but more over it’s an herb that’s entirely underutilized for savory dishes. This dish came together in my head while spec’ing product at work this afternoon (a not-so-creative left brained activity). The right side of my brain was feeling under-utilized writing tables of messaging requirements, so I started thinking about what to make for dinner.
I think the idea of making noodles out of asparagus came first, but it was quickly followed by something to accompany it. I happen to have a nifty multi-blade razor thing from Japan (pictured below) so I just give a stalk one pass, then rotate it 90 degrees and give it another. If you don’t happen to have one of these things laying around your kitchen, you should be able to do this with a sharp knife (or mandoline) and some patience. If neither of those options don’t work for you, you could always leave the spears whole then serve it with the pesto to dip.
I’d have to say I was pretty happy with how the pesto turned out given that I’ve never made it before and the last time I had pesto on anything was ages ago. I could just eat this out of a bowl with a spoon, but I imagine it would be good on bread, in a sandwich, on regular pasta or served with lamb chops. It’s full of umami, earthy and creamy, but the mint and lemon juice add some brightness that makes this more versatile than other pesto’s I’ve had before.

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When it comes to pasta’s I like simplicity that highlights the quality of a few fresh ingredients. This recipe is about as simple as it gets and yet there’s something exotic about an Italian inspired Japanese dish (… or is it the other way around?) The creamy olive oil tames the spicy brininess of the cod row, while the shiso offers fresh relief from the intense essence of the sea.
If you’re not much of a seafood fan, this might be one you want to pass on, but if you love anchovies in your pasta, this should be right up your ally. You can get spicy cod roe at Japanese or Korean markets and the shiso and sushi grade squid should be available at most Japanese grocery stores. If you’re having trouble procuring the squid or the shiso, try buying some from your local sushi joint (shiso is that green leaf that often comes as a garnish for sashimi).
2 Tbs spicy cod roe (also known as karashi mentai)
1 Tbs good quality olive oil
6 oz linguine or spaghetti cooked al dente
2 oz sashimi grade raw squid sliced into “noodles”
4 green shiso leaves cut into thin ribbons
Cod roe typically comes in membranes and looks like an oblong sausage. Squeeze the cod roe out of the membrane into a bowl and add the olive oil. Stir to combine.
Cook the pasta according to the directions on the box and drain well. Add it to the cod roe mixture and toss until well combined. Add the squid and half the shiso and toss.
Serve the pasta and top with squid and reserved shiso.
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