Tag Archive for 'preserve'

Ramp kimchi & Ramp confit

So this weekend we made another trip north to pick ramps. This time we brought home a grocery bag brimming with these delightful members of the onion family (they’re sweet and have a flavor somewhere between leeks and garlic). The reason for this large harvest is that L had the brilliant idea of making ramp kimchi, and I wanted to make a ramp confit.

Kimchi, for those unfamiliar, is a fiery Korean side-dish that’s pickled in a potent mix of chili powder and garlic. The specifics and vegetables vary by region and season, but Korean families take pride in the number of urns of kimchi they prepare per year. Prior to winter, families would gather to pickle the last of fall’s vegetables to last them through the cold months until spring.

Confit on the other hand traces its roots to France before refrigeration where meats like duck and goose were cooked in their own fat to preserve them. The word is derived from the verb “confire” which quite literally means “to preserve” and can refer to fruits or vegetables as well as meat.

If you haven’t guessed by now, the common thread here is 2 ways to preserve these perishable gems so they last more than a few days. I figured it would be fun to employ methods coming from 2 continents, and the results were fantastic!

While ramps are a vegetable that aren’t available in Korea, they work perfectly for kimchi because of their strong (though not overpowering) garlic flavor. The long leaves are well suited for wrapping around a slice of steamed pork, or a bit of rice and the flavors just burst with spicy goodness in your mouth.

The confit on the other hand roasts the ramps in an ample amount of olive oil, rounding out the flavor and intensifying the sweetness. The olive oil it’s cooked in is redolent with ramp’s leeky garlicy aroma and is marvelous on pizza dough or bread.
Continue for full recipe

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Meyer lemon curd

Meyer Lemon Curd

As you probably know by now, I’m all about making simple things. If a recipe has too many ingredients, involves too much prep, or looks like I’ll get too many pots and pans dirty, I probably won’t make it. Lemon curd is the perfect example of this laziness-turned-innovation. Most recipes will have you cream the butter in an electric mixer, then do all kinds of crazy things with a double boiler.

Rather than accept such non-sense at face value, I set out to simplify this recipe. First I remembered an old trick for getting melted butter to combine with other liquids without clumping up. This eliminates the need to beat it in a mixer. Then I decided a double boiler isn’t necessary as long as you use a heavy bottomed pan over low heat. Voila, 1-pot, 1-bowl lemon curd in less than 30 minutes.

Update: I love Meyer lemons for their intense sweet lemony flavor, but they are much more delicate than regular lemons so they’re not so supermarket-friendly. If you’re in California they’re available all over the place, but for those of us in other parts of the country/world, try looking at “gourmet” groceries or at a farmer’s markets while they are in season (late winter - early spring). You could substitute for regular lemons, but you may need to increase the amount of sugar.

1 stick unsalted butter (1/4 lbs)
2-3 Meyer lemons zested
1/2 C Meyer lemon juice
3/4 C sugar
2 extra large eggs separated

Drop the whole stick of butter into a heavy bottomed saucepan over low heat and let it melt (the pan should be just warm enough to melt the butter). Once it’s mostly melted turn off the heat.

In a medium bowl, add the sugar and zest a few lemons into it. Then squeeze about 1/2 C of juice and add it to the sugar.

Separate the eggs, dropping the yolks into the pot of melted (but not hot) butter and the whites into the sugar mixture.

Whisk the yolks and butter together until well combined. Then take the whisk to the sugar mixture until well combined. Pour the sugar mixture into the pot with the butter and whisk it all together.

Turn the heat back on to low and use a heat-proof silicon spatula to constantly stir the mixture, scrapping the bottom and sides of the pan to make sure nothing burns. If you have an instant read thermometer, just get the temp up to 170 degrees and you should be golden. Otherwise, just keep stirring until the curd thickens enough to coat the spatula. Make sure you don’t over cook it!

As soon as it’s done, take it off the heat and pour it into another container.

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Make fresh ginger last

Vodka preserved ginger

Fresh ginger is great, but it’s something I don’t use all the time and it usually goes bad or dries out by the time I want to use it again. Since I almost always use it in cooked food, I’ve found a good way to preserve it.

Just peel and cut up the ginger, put it in a tupperware and cover it with vodka. It will keep in the fridge forever. When you cook it the alcohol burns off so you can’t tell the difference and you also get some ginger infused vodka out of it that you can use for cooking or for drinking:-)

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