Given that steak is such a dense heavy dish I never fully understood why steakhouse sides are always so heavy. Don’t get me wrong, I love me a good baked potato with butter, sour cream, cheddar, bacon and chives, but it’s not exactly what I’d call a contrast up against a big hunk of grilled meat.
Creamed spinach is one of those steakhouse sides that I’ve always loved in theory (what’s not to like about a veggie that consists of more cream and butter than spinach?). But every time I tried to order it (usually in a steakhouse) I was so filled up by the headline act that the thick cloying side just didn’t work for me.
For my version, I went with another green veggie that has a bit more texture that could stand up to the bechamel. Instead of cream, I used milk, although you’re welcome to put the cream back in if you’ve been feeling a little skinny lately. I added gruyere to give it some more depth and a nice crusty top and since steak dinners have a certain decadence about them, I added some earthy truffle oil and shaved black truffles.
Honestly though you could leave the shaved truffles ($15 an ounce) out as a few drops of the truffle oil adds plenty of flavour at a much more reasonable price. Also, if you’ve never used truffle oil before, be careful, a little goes a long way and I find that too much oil makes stuff taste rather unpleasant.
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While I’m all about making simple things regardless of the time of year, this is especially true as summer approaches. Part of this is a practical thing (don’t want to have the stove on all day), but it’s mostly because I like to enjoy summer’s bounty almost naked, with just a few accents to make things pop.
Summer is a time for satiny leafy greens, curvaceous summer squashes and sweet succulent berries with all laid to bare. Can they be adorned with a few accessories? Sure! Just as long as you don’t cover up the best bits. Is this starting to sound like a steamy romance novel? Well good! because I’m passionate about the foods of summer.
As it gets warm outside, I’ll be visiting farms, gathering summer’s beauties and exposing them, centerfold style. The following highlights two gorgeous greens with little bits of fleshy pink bacon and bronzed walnuts setting the whole thing off.
2 slices of thick-cut bacon cut into batons
3 medium swiss chard leaves roughly chopped
10 ramps roughly chopped
small handful of crumbled walnuts
Cook the bacon in a saute pan over medium heat until a good amount of fat has rendered out and the edges start turning brown (but not crisp). Turn up the heat and add the swiss chard, tossing until wilted and the white stems turn translucent.
Add the ramps and walnuts and cook for a few more seconds until the ramps wilt and turn a vibrant green. Grind some black pepper on top and serve.
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